Paris Fashion Week Top 10 picks (Mens Spring Summer 2016)
1. Saint Laurent
"Californiaaa Lovee." The chelsea boot wearing, greyscale portrait posing, punk rockstar, Hedi Slimane is back and he brought a couple of friends. These are, by far, the trendiest men to ever walk on soil. In a nutshell, they all hang out in Silverlake, CA and drive 1967 GT Mustangs. They indulge in chai tea, eat cashews and only grow organic (pun intended). On Tuesdays, you might find them at your local farmers market picking up fresh fruit. A few hours later, you might spot them at Soho House West Hollywood alongside your favorite Victoria's Secret model. James Dean would be proud of all 77 looks. Hedi is the raining champion when it comes to layering and grungy-disheveled aesthetic. Take a look at Lenny Kravits. The frayed flannel shirts, tuxedo jackets, Kurt Cobain shades and scarves were the highlights of this collection. Slimane is full of surprises, as the biker jackets transitioned to leopard print, tie-dye, zebra, fringe, meshed into kaleidoscope patterns. Pure awesomeness indeed. I tell you what. I'll take look 73 (hand beaded denim jacket, white tee, denim pants) and meet you guys at Will Rogers State beach. Surfs up.
Alexander Wang period. There's no need to elaborate anymore. Just kidding. This man is leaving his imprint day by day. The real fashion connoisseurs know this is Wang to the third power. So with that being said, BALENCIAGA ITS TIME FOR A RUNWAY SHOW DAMNIT. ITS LONG OVERDUE. This deserves a standing ovation for cut, functionality and simplicity. Wang is known for the laser cut, which is visible from start to finish. With that comes the ultimate pant/jacket. In all, there's at least 18 compartments for storage and function. No need to worry about not having your iphone charger, wallet, keys, iPad mini, or anything. Wanna get away with wearing the same pants everyday? Fine, unzip the zipper on the hem and roll up the other leg. The python and cotton-nylon tank adds a luxurious texture/sheen to the somber color palette. Lets check the score cards. 10/10.
3. Off White
Two Words. "Organized Utilitarianism." Manipulate the eye and let your viewers (process group A) interpret. Attention to detail is critical when dealing with a master architect. Sitting in front of the Off-White dry erase board isnt new for Mr. Abloh. So watching this brand unfold, in a sense, is equivalent to Brave New World by Aldous Huxley. Out with the old test tubes, in with the new. Very Apple. The pyschology behind this man is lush, as he might be going to Fashion Week. Yes, might. Remember, you're dealing with advanced wit. The vintage, DHL, mail uniform pieces lets you know this guy is international. Being an international finesser is a job itself, hence the raw unfinished hems. You think this man is afraid to get his hands dirty? He already tucked his shirt into his high waisted, pleated trousers before you could ask him any questions. As a matter of fact, dont ask him any questions. Call 1(855)-OFF-WHTE for clarity. The weather reports were just announced. Its going to rain all night in Paris. This man isn't too fond of umbrellas, but he does have a nice arsenal of jackets for these conditions. Do you understand whats going on? If not, step away from the white board. Fabien Montique and Virgil Abloh are in the room to slay/stay. Go off.
First things first. Was Bryan Boy on the mood board during pre-production? This is him in the flesh. Or maybe, this a hint, to conclude Jonny Johansson expanding his taste level to new heights. In my opinion, this collection represents the eclectic artist with no boundaries. If the male romper and top coat didn't make you double-take try the long, pastel, cashmere sweater. Still not shocked? Well try to make the color palette of yin and yang look cooler on a onesie. If you think this collection is feminine, you haven't passed dad camp just yet. "Thats all," says Miranda Priestly.
Everyone please keep your seat belts securely fastened. Were heading into the SAFARI! If you look to the left here, you will see the best textiles of 2015. Heavy embellished moto jackets, drawstring chinos, deep pockets and straps for extra security. If you haven't noticed, this traveler is extremely advanced to the wild life. They aren't afraid of snakes, or critters, so its okay to wear the open toe boots. Pure hybrids to the highest caliber. These travelers are offsprings of several species, as they had to earn their stripes. The traditional Balmain pant still exist. However, the lapels have transformed into croc scales, the vest are double breast and seperates morphed into onesies. From the looks of everything we've just seen, Oliver's men are equipped for the next 20 generations.
6. Gosha Rubchinskiy
Its been a long time coming for this guy. Back in 2012, no one, except for a few visionaries knew of his existence. Now fast forward to today, every teenager, Hypebeast, and blogger bows down to him. The radical youth of Soviet-era is alive. Thank you Ian Connor and Wiz Khalifa. What happens when you crash the internet? Well, these kids crashed the Olympics via runway. Who let them in? None of these guys were born in 1984, but the creative vision is clear. Dont let the track jackets and sweat pants fool you. Reeboks and lime powerade keeps them balanced on their toes. The model with the color block muscle tee possesses deadly athleticism. You dont want to piss any of these guys off because you get Lou Kane kicked from the balance beam.
7. Christopher Kane
Ladies and gentleman, please stand clear and hold your hats. Kane is currently in REM sleep mode, so try to keep your voices at a minimum. Whats going on in his subconscious? Bold military jackets, parachute strap belts and confetti. One thing I would like to point out is Kane's ability to stay consistent from season to season. Rather its a bold print, or hot red pantone, Kane's vision is always straightforward.
8. Dries Van Noten
You can't have a conversation about Paisley and not pay homage to Mr. Van Noten. Add a cup of Marilyn Monroe, teaspoon echos of Salvador Dali surrealism, leopard print and palm trees. Now were talking about something iconic. Slate grey, maroon, navy and white couldnt have been done better by anyone else. Abstract, reversed lapels, oversized parkas, shimmering velvet and Marilyn were high notes of this masterpiece. The silk, high waisted trouser and shorts were consistent with a relaxed fit to complement the tailored shrits. Elsa Schiaparelli references are present from the leopard spotted coat. Dont forget to rub your hands across the embroidered lobster. When risk and execution are combined, you get Dries Van Noten.
Before we dive into this, lets do a little math. Okay, so if you take the square root of jacquard times floral, divided into a quarter of paisley, a fourth of suede, a massive amount of masculinity and royalty what do get? Answer: An Italian Casino in Dubai. Hmm interesting. Next equation. What happens when the breeze hits the crepe de chine underneath the fabulous topcoats? Does the wind make it through the tread count? Careful how you answer that question. Its for Dads only. Thank you Keno Etro.
Last, but not least at all, goes to one of the coolest guys around. AMI. This collection speaks to the friends of friends. These are the friends that are already cool with the celebs and dont necessarily have to RSVP for entry. They show up when they want and leave in the Uber SUV. Now wait a minute.. "He posted a pic in VIP at the Oscars party?" Yep, he didn't even wear a suit. Holy shit.. "TMZ took a pic of him making out with Miley Cyrus? WTF?! HOW?" Text him and ask him about it (he reads but doesn't respond). So how did he become acquainted with all of these people? Its simple. He's the plug. That's it. From the start, its not your typical Paris Fashion Week collection. Slouchy trench coats, basic button downs, slacks and sneakers is the mood for this evening. A few steps later, you get bright track pants, under lightweight, wool sweaters and a cardigan. No disrespect at all to the Hypebeast out there. We love your Yeezy 350 boost and Raf Simons FATHERS shirt. However, its important that you pay close attention to the Porsche driver, the Mulholland Drive mansion owner, and most importantly, the AMEX black cardholder. He's not loud, he just chills. You might spot him dapping Kanye up on the way out.